Crispy Falafel Plate with Hummus & Pickled Cabbage

Place the 300g of dry chickpeas in a large bowl. Add the ½ tsp of baking soda and cover with at least 3 times the volume of cold water — the chickpeas expand dramatically during soaking and will absorb a substantial quantity of water. Allow to soak for 12–24 hours at room temperature. At the shorter end the chickpeas will be hydrated but still firm; at 24 hours they will be fully plump and split slightly at the skin — both are correct. Drain and rinse thoroughly under cold running water before processing. The reason soaked-raw chickpeas are the correct and only appropriate starting point for falafel is structural: dry chickpeas that have been soaked but not cooked still have intact, firm cell walls. When processed to a coarse paste and subjected to frying heat, steam generates within these cell structures and creates the puffed, lightly airy interior texture and the specifically crunchy, shattered exterior of properly made falafel. Canned chickpeas are already fully cooked — their cell walls are softened and broken — and they produce a dense, paste-like falafel that fries into a soft, slightly gummy ball that absorbs oil rather than producing the crisp exterior. There is no technique that makes canned chickpeas produce proper falafel.

Slice the 300g of red cabbage as finely as possible — a mandoline produces the most consistent thin slices; a sharp knife and steady hand produces equivalent results. The thinner the slices, the faster and more completely the brine penetrates — very thin cabbage reaches the correct sharp, tender-crisp pickle texture within 30–60 minutes; thicker slices require the full 4+ hours. Pack the sliced cabbage into a clean jar or heatproof bowl. In a small saucepan, combine the 120ml of vinegar, 120ml of water, 20g of sugar, 8g of salt, 1 smashed garlic clove, and optional cumin seeds and chili flakes. Bring to a gentle simmer, stirring until the sugar and salt have completely dissolved. Pour the hot brine over the cabbage immediately, pressing the cabbage down with a spoon to ensure every strand is fully submerged. Allow to cool to room temperature — approximately 30 minutes — then cover and refrigerate. The pickled cabbage is usable after 30–60 minutes but its flavour deepens and rounds significantly over the first 4 hours. For this plate, keep the brine assertively acidic — do not increase the sugar beyond the recipe quantity. The pickle’s function is specifically to cut through the hummus’s creaminess and the fried falafel’s richness, and a sweet-leaning pickle cannot fulfil this function as effectively.

For the complete technique — including the overnight chickpea soak with baking soda, the tahini-first processing sequence, and the ice-cold water incorporation — follow the full Classic Hummus recipe. The hummus can be made up to 3 days ahead and refrigerated — bring to room temperature for 20 minutes before serving and stir well. Before plating, spread the hummus into a wide shallow bowl and create a deep well in the centre with the back of a spoon. Drizzle olive oil into the well and dust with smoked paprika.

Drain and rinse the soaked chickpeas. Add them to a food processor with the 1½ tsp of fine sea salt. Pulse repeatedly — 15–20 short bursts — until the chickpeas reach a coarse, sandy, slightly granular texture where the majority of pieces are 2–3mm and no whole chickpeas remain. The texture should look like coarse wet sand rather than a smooth paste — this coarse texture is what creates the falafel’s interior structure and crunchy exterior. Add the roughly chopped onion, 4 garlic cloves, packed fresh parsley, packed fresh cilantro, 1½ tsp of cumin, 1 tsp of coriander, 1 tsp of cracked black pepper, 1 tsp of lemon zest, and ¼–½ tsp of cayenne. Process again in short pulses until a thick, cohesive mixture forms — scraping down the sides frequently. The finished mixture should resemble a slightly wet, coarse paste that holds together when pressed between fingers but is not smooth or purée-like. Visible herb flecks throughout the green-speckled mixture are correct.

Transfer the processed mixture to a bowl, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 1–2 hours. This resting period serves two functions: the coarse chickpea pieces hydrate more evenly from the surrounding herb and onion moisture, producing a more cohesive mixture that holds its shape during forming; and the cold temperature firms the mixture so it is less sticky and easier to portion and compress into discs. Skipping this step produces a mixture that is difficult to shape cleanly and more prone to falling apart in the frying oil.

Remove the chilled mixture from the refrigerator. Sprinkle the 1 tsp of baking powder evenly over the surface and fold gently through the mixture until evenly distributed. The baking powder is added at this late stage specifically — mixed into the food processor with the other ingredients it would be processed unevenly and its carbon dioxide release during processing would partially exhaust the leavening before frying. Added just before shaping, it releases its carbon dioxide during the first minutes of frying, creating the specific airy, slightly puffed interior texture. If the mixture feels too wet to hold a shaped disc without spreading, refrigerate for an additional 30 minutes or fold in 1–2 tbsp of chickpea flour — the chickpea flour absorbs excess moisture without altering the flavour. Line one baking tray with parchment paper for the formed falafel and another with paper towels for draining after frying. Using a medium cookie scoop or 2 tablespoons, portion the mixture and compress each portion firmly into a slightly flattened disc approximately 5–6cm in diameter and 2cm thick. The disc shape rather than a ball is specifically appropriate for shallow frying — the flat faces maximise contact with the hot oil surface, producing the maximum golden crust surface area from a shallower oil depth. Press each disc firmly — compressing the mixture enough that it holds its shape rather than crumbling at the edges. You should produce approximately 20–24 falafel depending on portion size.

Heat approximately 2–3cm of neutral oil in a large, deep skillet over medium-high heat to 170–180°C — verify with a cooking thermometer. At the correct temperature a small piece of the falafel mixture dropped into the oil should sizzle vigorously and float to the surface immediately. Below 165°C the falafel absorbs oil and remains pale; above 185°C the exterior darkens before the interior has heated through. Add the falafel discs to the hot oil in batches — 5–6 at a time depending on skillet size — without overcrowding. Fry for 3–3½ minutes on the first side without moving, until the bottom face is deeply golden-brown. Flip carefully using a thin spatula and fry the second side for 3–3½ minutes. The correctly fried falafel should be a deep, even golden-brown — almost amber — on both flat faces, with a clearly crunchy exterior. Transfer to the paper towel-lined tray immediately. Allow the oil to return to temperature between batches. Lightly season with fine sea salt while still hot. Baked Version: Preheat the oven to 190°C. Place the shaped falafel on a parchment-lined baking sheet and spray generously with oil on all surfaces. Bake for 25–30 minutes, turning once at the 15-minute mark, until golden on both sides. The baked version is less crisp, slightly drier, and less rich than the fried version — a reasonable lighter alternative that benefits from more generous oil spraying.

Spread the hummus generously onto each plate — a wide, swooped layer rather than a small central portion. Arrange 5–6 falafel per person alongside the hummus. Place a generous portion of the drained pickled cabbage on each plate — its vivid purple-pink colour against the golden falafel and pale hummus provides the visual variety that makes this plate immediately appealing. Drizzle extra-virgin olive oil over the hummus. Dust with smoked paprika. Scatter chopped fresh parsley. Serve with warm pita alongside for tearing and scooping.