Pat the 1,200g of chicken thighs very dry with paper towels, pressing into the skin and the cut edges. If using bone-in thighs, chop them through the bone into large serving pieces, keeping the skin attached; if using the 1,000g of boneless thighs, cut them into large, chunky pieces rather than small cubes. Slice the 60g of ginger into thick coins, peel the 12–14 garlic cloves, and pick the 40–50g of basil leaves from the stems. That thorough drying is what lets the skin brown instead of steam and gives the glaze something to cling to.

In a small bowl, combine the 80ml of light soy sauce, the 20ml of dark soy sauce, and the 80ml of Shaoxing wine or Taiwanese rice wine. Keep the 60ml of toasted sesame oil separate for cooking, and set the basil aside, since it only goes in at the very end. The mixture should look dark and savoury, ready to reduce into something glossy rather than pale or watery. That separation of the sesame oil from the sauce is what lets the oil fry and brown the chicken first and perfume the whole pan.

Heat a wok, sauté pan, or wide braising pan over medium to medium-high heat and add the 60ml of toasted sesame oil, lowering the heat slightly if it begins to smoke. Lay the chicken in skin-side down in a single layer and cook undisturbed for 4–6 minutes, until the skin is deeply browned. Turn the pieces and brown the other side for 2–3 minutes more, working in batches if the pan is crowded and returning everything to the pan afterwards. Spoon off rendered fat only if there is clearly too much. That real colour on the skin is what supplies the caramelised flavour the finished glaze depends on.

Lower the heat slightly and add the ginger coins, the 12–14 whole garlic cloves, and the 8–12 dried red chilies to the pan around the chicken. Fry for 1–2 minutes, turning occasionally, until the ginger is fragrant, the garlic softens and begins to turn lightly golden, and the chilies darken slightly while staying red rather than black. If anything colours too quickly, slide it to a cooler part of the pan. That brief fry is what perfumes the oil with ginger and chili before the liquid goes in, without letting the garlic burn.

Pour in the soy-wine mixture and bring it to a steady simmer, adding the 1–2 tsp of sugar now if you want to round the bitterness and saltiness. Cook uncovered over medium heat for about 12–18 minutes, turning the chicken occasionally, until it is fully cooked, the sauce has reduced to a thick, shiny glaze, and only a small amount remains pooling in the pan. If the pan dries before the chicken is done, add 1–2 tbsp of water, and check bone-in pieces near the bone, where the meat should reach 74°C / 165°F. That uncovered reduction is what lets the sauce thicken naturally and cling to the chicken instead of staying soupy.

Turn the heat up to medium-high if needed, add the 40–50g of Thai basil, and toss rapidly for 20–40 seconds, just until the leaves wilt and smell fragrant. Remove the pan from the heat immediately. Add a few extra basil leaves for the final toss only if the pan looks sparse, because the basil is a defining part of the dish and a generous amount is intended. That short, fast toss is what keeps the leaves aromatic instead of dull and overcooked.

Transfer the chicken and everything in the pan to a serving bowl or plate while it is still hot. The dish should visibly include deeply browned glazed chicken pieces, whole garlic cloves, thick ginger slices, whole dried red chilies, abundant Thai basil leaves, and a small amount of dark glossy sauce at the bottom. Serve with plain steamed white rice to catch the glaze. That rustic, chunky presentation is what shows the sauce was properly reduced rather than left loose.